Friday, September 26, 2008


Ok, so its nothing major, but we have some decent 4-5 foot NW swell arriving on the islands by Tuesday and there's enough activity in the northern Pacific to keep things rolling for at least a week from the initial models.


I have to admit - there's nothing worse than being on Maui with only windswell. Yeah, yeah, I know. Waaaahh waaahhh. Poor folks suffering on Maui without swell. Sure we go to Maui for the trades, but the reason I go to Maui is for the winter swell.

Heck, I can go lots of places for wind, but there's nothing sweeter than a big swell on the northshore. The whole place comes alive and the sound of the waves rumbling you awake in the early AM ... sorry, its a little slice of heaven.

Then there's the joy of picking up a ground swell on the outside, positioning yourself just right as it jacks up on the reef and dropping in, all wound up wishing I picked the next smaller sail in my quiver than the one I'm on right now. (this is where my lifetime of picking to be powered up always comes back to haunt me) But I didn't and now I'm WAY committed. Bottom turn and I glance up to see where the wave will go critical and crap! Its way bigger than I thought and its gonna close out on me.... BIG TIME. Before I even contemplate the downside of my decision, I'm charging the lip headed for that sliver of light before the door slams shut in my face...

Ah, I can't wait. Just thinking about it makes my spine tingle. ;-)

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